[Shanghai] Pelikan (2)

Pelikan, the Nordic-inspired restaurant tucked in a residential street in Jing’an, has been open all of nine months, but its food already feels vastly different from when I first visited last spring. Helmed by Danish chef Kasper Pedersen, the kitchen has honed its cooking, so that what was already good food to begin with becomes more precise and focused.

[New York] Lilia

Manhattan is no stranger to good Italian food, from age-old establishments like Carbone and Del Posto, to relative upstarts like L’Artusi and Pasquale Jones.
So when a new Italian restaurant has half of Manhattan flocking across the river to Brooklyn, you know it’s something different. Lilia is such a restaurant.

[Tokyo] Abysse

There are probably few other restaurants in the world that dedicate their attention as unwaveringly to seafood as chef Kotaro Meguro’s Abysse in Tokyo. The 30-year-old chef forgoes meat dishes entirely on his menu, turning an unwavering focus to the fruits of the ocean.

[Shanghai] Highline

Chefs Anna Bautista and Sean Jorgensen, the formidable team behind a slew of successful dining concepts around town including Chez Maurice and Al’s Diner, have joined forces again to take over the kitchen of Highline. A new all-day dining concept located in The Ascott Residence on Huaihai Road, Highline is a Cali-inspired restaurant and bar serving contemporary American fare.

[New York] Cosme

On Cosme’s one-page menu, guacamole is exiled to the lower left corner, while tacos and quesadillas are banished off the sheet entirely. That alone should tell you that Cosme is not your average Mexican restaurant.

[New York] Contra

New York as a city is hard to define. New York as a school of cuisine is practically non-existent.
Enter Contra, a deeply personal vision of two young chefs, whose style of cooking manages to capture New York’s identity: modern, opinionated, and expressive, with a kind of elegant efficiency and practicality that only New York can pull off.

[Tokyo] Florilège

Over the course of an evening at Florilège, I witnessed a truly fearsome combination in Chef Kawate’s cooking: a clear and precise vision of what each of his plates is meant to evoke in us, an astute understanding of what flavors to call upon to evoke those feelings, and the impeccable skills to make each of those flavors do exactly what he tells them.