This latest project by the OHA Group is one of those rare places where food, wine, and space are all entirely comfortable with one another. You can spend a whole evening wandering through Mr. Mimmo Zhou’s adventurous wine list, comprised exclusively of natural wines. The menu, on the other hand, holds our attention in an entirely different way. Mr. Blake Thornley seems to take his cues from the easygoing Italian osteria, whipping up honest, unfussy starters, gently smoky wood-fired pizzas, and some of the most engaging pastas I have encountered in Shanghai.
Manhattan is no stranger to good Italian food, from age-old establishments like Carbone and Del Posto, to relative upstarts like L’Artusi and Pasquale Jones.
So when a new Italian restaurant has half of Manhattan flocking across the river to Brooklyn, you know it’s something different. Lilia is such a restaurant.